Higashiyama Ogata is a coveted kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto that draws its prestige from the original mother restaurant, Ogata. Both bearing Michelin Stars, Toshiro Ogata, the chef and founder, is on high platform praised for his uniqueness and ingenuity to showcase diners a one-of-a-kind culinary experience. True to tradition that uplifts Japanese heritage, each meal is a curated symphonic orchestra paired with warm hospitality.
It is impossible to get a reservation at Ogata, likewise with its sister restaurant. We were lucky to snag one out of the blue for somebody canceled last minute. This is our first journey into the tradition of the Kaiseki scene.
Upon arriving, you will be led to an unassuming walkway that leads to the restaurant.
Kaiseki
For those who are not familiar, Kaiseki is a form of dining where you are given multiple courses, similar to what we know now as modern fine dining. Unlike Western fine dining, chefs must follow a structure on what to serve you. For example, a soup course, sashimi course and pickles are a must and cannot be removed. Also, while Western fine dining normally ends a. meal with a piece of protein, a Kaiseki meal doesn’t necessarily follow the same flow. There’s a lot of history behind the art that you can read online.
You will be welcomed by a staff member at the entrance. When you enter the main room, a wonderful Japanese garden appears in the background, robbing your attention from the simplicity of the kaiseki table.
We were instantly shown some freshly foraged Matsutake mushrooms that are currently in season.
Once the rest of the guests arrived, we were off to the races.
We are newbies when it come to the world of Kaiseki, more so with the ingredients that are used in Japan. Higashiyama Ogata follows the owner’s principle of serving minimalist cuisine, letting the ingredients shine through. Although I must say that I felt a bit disappointed on how minimalist the whole meal was. Maybe I was not understanding something, for our fellow diners seem to have enjoyed everything like it was a dream come true for them to even be sitting here. It also helped to find out after the meal that online comments normally how highlight the simplicity and how you must be in the know to fully understand the intent of the meal.
I found some preparations to be a joke, something that even a home cook could’ve prepared.
Sashimi of Sea Bream, Leaves and Flowers
If you haven’t had Sea Bream before, let me tell you that it is a chewy type of fish. First time raw fish eaters might struggle to consume.
The prepared leaves and flowers left no taste nor did it contributed anything to the overall dish.
Soup made from fish bones with Wasabi
Chefs preparing the following course
Grilled Amadai and type of Shellfish
The chef de cuisine trimmed some parts of the mushroom that will be used for another preparation.
Deep fried Matsutake Mushrooms served with lime
This was the first question mark for me. I felt like this is something that you can prepare at home, and for a place to serve deep fried mushroom to its guests and charge an insane amount is a ridicule.
The mushroom could’ve used a minute or two more in the fryer for mine was chewy as hell.
Squash, Fresh Japanese Peanuts and a Jelly made from Dashi
Below, you will see a type of fish called Ayu. Ayu is similar to Smelt, a sweet fish with bony structure. This breed of fish is widely popular in East Asia and are enjoyed by countries like Japan, Korea, Taiwan and China. You can fry, grill and bake these and enjoy them as is.
Deep fried Ayu Fish, or sweet fish | you eat the entire fish
Ayu served with black bean and soy
Deep fried chestnut, also in season
This is the second red flag for me. Don’t get me wrong, the chestnut was melt-in-your-mouth amazing but seriously?
Snapper and Tofu in a clear Dashi
Clean flavors and delicate textures warmed my soul. I enjoy sipping dashi that is flavorful
Hokkaido rice prepared with the trimmings of Matsutake, a variety of Japanese pickles.
This is where they used the trimmings of the mushroom, folded in the rice.
Soba with Dashi
Simple, delicious and chewy.
Potato Yam dessert and Matcha tea
Food: 6/10 | Price: 2/10: food and price go hand in hand. I just felt robbed with the food presented to us. While eating, I was trying to find the sense or meaning out of the dishes but just couldn’t figure it out. One thing I want to be clear about is that some of the dishes tasted good, but not good enough deserving of a standing ovation. They were just simple ingredients or preparations done right.
Service: 8/10 The team behind the counter are young and lacked the elegance to serve. At some point, they got lost in the flow. I feel like having a dedicated front of the house staff will be beneficial for the restaurant.
Ambience: 9/10 Expected out of Kaiseki restaurant where the backdrop is just gorgeous and the entire place is well kept. I wish there was a bit of music playing in the background.
Trying to find a reason to come back. Maybe when I’ve fully immersed myself in the Japanese culture will I find the meaning behind this meal.